Friday, June 15, 2012

Making an Invisible Zipper Invisible!

This is the second technique I will go through which I did while working on my 1940's dress. I know most of you will already know how to insert an invisible zipper but this one is different. The zipper needs to be placed in the center of the back bodice from the neckline and here comes the difference.... the back is one complete piece! Shock, horror!!

I have never done a zipper like this so thought I would go through the steps to help anyone else who is scratching their heads at a similar sewing puzzle.


- Back of garment
- Invisible zipper
- Thread
- Sewing machine
- Scissors
- Iron
- Ironing board
- Tailor chalk
- Needle
- Pins

Now if everyone is sitting comfortably I will begin!!

STEP 1: Iron your back piece so its completely flat and crease free. Mine has darts at the bottom but as I'm putting the zipper in the bottom that shouldn't matter.

STEP 2: Fold the back in half pinning at the neckline and arm to make sure its even. Pin along the fold to the end of the zipper opening. Then go to your trusty iron and press a crease on the fold line the length of the cut.

STEP 3: Mark with tailors chalk where you want the top of the zipper to be, You need to take into account the seam allowance you have given yourself. In my case it was 3/4". Also mark the bottom of the zipper. Then take a deep breath and cut down this line - I know its scary! At the bottom of the cut snip about 1/8" diagonally away from the line to make a mini triangle.

I hate unfinished ends so I then sewed an overcast stitch on both sides. This is optional but worthwhile if you don;t like frayed edges.

This just shows you the overcast stitch and the mini triangle if you have good eye sight!

STEP 4: Insert the invisible zipper in the normal way. I will assume most people will know how to do this. If you don't and want me to do a tutorial let me know and I will do one for you. I usually double stitch my zippers to make sure so here is a picture of what the inside seam of my zipper looks like.

STEP 5: Right now remember that mini triangle? Now you need to get your needle and thread at the ready and tuck that little guy under at the bottom of the zipper and do a hidden stitch to make sure it stays put. This should make it very neat at the base of the zipper. Then all that's left do to is to iron the seams along the zipper to make it nice and flat.

So there you have one invisible zipper inserted.

Have you ever inserted a similar style of zipper? What technique did you use?  Would be great to hear what you all think, so comment away! 

Find out what my finished dress turned out like in my next post......

Happy blogging! 


  1. Thanks for this! I've seen similar instructions to create a slit in a skirt with a single panel, but it'd never occurred to me you could do a zipper that way too...

    1. No problem! It was a new way to do a zipper for me too! Might come in handy in future projects :-)

  2. Hello! Thank you for this :) but can you show me how did you insert the zipper? I am new in this. Thank you in advance!


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